Build a Better Bra: Part 2

Thursday’s blog post is coming to you a little later today!

I have a few things on my plate at this point including more pants, more skirts and a new other project (remember- surprise costume!) and that doesn’t include this costume, and with all that-sleep somewhere in there. But there will be more on that later- let’s jump into this while we are here.

I had done some gathering of information to share with you all on the original post- and totally forgot too- SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO I’ll throw those in here now- some other peoples construction and a few other blogs that share some amazing tutorials.

I’ve learned a lot from the internet and all my savvy sewer friends and want to share some of them here!

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Shout out to Razilee who shared so many photos with me of her process- which looks very similar to mine! The two sets of photos at the top were donated from a Facebook group, Lorelei creates hers in bulk (god bless girl!)

Sparkly Belly by Mao has a LOT of information- she has a few free tutorials as well as some subscription for other techniques or courses. She has a four part tutorial for bras that I’d recommend checking out- but she has TONS of content so don’t over look it!

They are well laid out and thorough- if you’re a total beginner or a seasoned costumer- you are likely to get something out of them. I’ve been doing my own for years and I still really enjoyed them!

Shushanna is a local (to me) Philly dancer- who has one of the most technical tutorials laid out- she’s a super nerd in the engineering world so hers are VERY detailed oriented and thorough- again- learned a lot and they are still one of the most commonly referenced tutorials on the webs for circle skirts! Check them out here!

Dawn Davina an her blog compiled a WONDERFUL list of bra constructions which is an awesome list to go through (and includes an entry from yours truly!)

Bhuz.com (RIP) is no more- but thank you all who used to help out there- because I learned SO.MUCH.

Having said that- let’s jump into wrapping up this one!

Once the base is completed and it FITS- you have your straps covered and ready to go- it’s time to cover it. This takes time- patience- quilt binder clips and pins.  First things first- I cut a general square shape that’s 3-4” larger than the entire shape of the cup- again a flat but flexible surface covering something that is most certainly 3 dimensional and its’ going to take up extra fabric

I start at the top inside usually and pin my way around both sides.

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I didn’t care for the way this fabric looked just with one dart- so I opted for some texture and a few gathers to give it some visual interest. This could have been also done on the belt- but I didn’t because I didn’t start that way- and I didn’t like it gathered on the belt- and originally my intent was a smooth surface. But being flexible and open to change is part of dance and costuming so there you. #lifelessonsbyjo.

See the three variations below- gathers, a regular pleat- several small gathers (which is what I settled on at the bottom)

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And once you settle on that- you start stitching the insides down

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And that leads us to the biggest part of this – which is the inverted V in the middle. Which I took a rectangular piece and secured with binder clips and folded by hand to make sure it was a good fit.  Then carefully sewed so all the stitches and seams were hidden.

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I carefully stitch it together on the back to snug it around the front and it doesn’t have to be perfect- beeeeeeeeeeecause there are jewels to cover it!

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Trim the inside and you’ll have something that looks like the right. ugly ugly ugly on the inside- but nice and tidy on the out!

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Unfortunately it’s late and I’m behind today with an early start tomorrow- so I’ll share with you the finished product this weekend and share the new bra and the next steps!

Till next time fearless costumers!

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